Kyoto to Osaka

On the evening of July 6, I decided to visit the top of Kyoto Tower. I wanted to see the Kyoto skyline at night. I was not disappointed. 

The next morning,  July 7, I made my way to Kyoto Station and headed by train to Osaka. The journey took about 75 minutes to complete. Upon arrival I made my way to the Drop Inn Osaka hostel, a short walk from the central train station. The hostel was very comfortable, clean, and had a very nice common area.

Once settled in, I made my way over to the  Umeda Sky Building, a spectacular high rise in the Kita district and a short walk from the hostel. The building consists of two main towers connected by a “Floating Garden Observatory” on the 38th floor. The elevator and escalator rides were unnerving and exciting at the same time, and the views from the observatory were incredible.

In the evening I ventured over to the HEP FIVE building to ride on the red ferris wheel located on its roof from which I had great night views of the Osaka city skyline.

Shosei-en

Shosei-en is a small Japanese garden located a few blocks east of Higashi Hongan-ji, a large Buddhist temple in the center of Kyoto.

In fact, Shosei-en is a detached residence with a large pond stroll garden that was originally constructed as a retreat for the chief monk Sen’yo (1602-1658). The land was donated by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1641.

There are many features within the garden, including teahouses, stone bridges, a wooden bridge called Shiniestu-kyo, a covered bridge, several small islands, stone lanterns, and an unusual wall made of fragments from other structures - including a stone mill.

I chose this as my last garden to visit because it was located so close to the hostel where I was staying. Although none of the buildings were open when I visited, the grounds made for a lovely way to spend my afternoon, even in the rain.

Tofuku-ji

Tofuku-ji is a Zen Buddhist temple founded in 1236. The buildings on the grounds are a mixture of original, reconstruction, and more recent construction.

The Hojo (head monk’s living quarters) is surrounded on all four sides by rock gardens, each with its own character. The southern Garden is a dry-stone garden, the western garden contains moss and azalea shrubs trimmed into a checkered pattern, the northern garden contains square-cut stones and patches of moss in a checkered pattern, and the eastern garden has seven cylindrical stones arranged in a field of moss. 

The Tsutenkyo Bridge spans a valley of maple trees and is a spectacular site to see. Crossing it brings one to a variety of shrines, including the Kaisando Hall, a mausoleum for the temple’s first head monk. The stone path in front of Kaisando is flanked by contrasting gardens on both sides. On the left is a dry rock garden, and on the right, a lush pond garden. These gardens  were built during the Edo Period (1603-1867). 

Nijo-jo

Nijo Castle was built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. After the collapse of the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1867, the castle was used as an imperial palace. Today, the palace buildings are considered to be one of the best surviving examples of feudal castle architecture.

After entering the first circle of defense, one passes through the Chinese style Karamon Gate. Just beyond is the entrance to the Ninomaru palace. This palace was the residence of the Shogun while visiting Kyoto. Separate buildings within are connected via corridors with so called nightingale floors - floors that intentionally squeak as a security against intruders. 

The Ninomaru gardens are a traditional landscape garden with a large pond, ornamental stones, and manicured pine trees. The five story castle keep no longer stands, having been destroyed by fire, but one can climb its stairs and foundation for a great view of the inner circle of defense where the current Honmaru Palace now sits. This palace is not open to the public and is still used by the current Emperor.